Mountaineering and Climbing in Turda Gorges nature reserve

The first pitons were driven in the Turda Gorges in 1949 by Andrei Moldovan and Kovacs Francisc to reach the Sansil Cave from where they descended. It was not until 1961 that Gyongyosi Miklos with Rozsnyai Karoly completed the route to the Sansil Corner Ridge, and in 1984 Moravek Laszlo together with Dan Moldovan discovered the interesting "tunnel variant", completing the action begun 35 years ago of visiting and researching caves suspended in the gorge.

The Turda Gorges host over 350 mountaineering and climbing routes, from beginner routes to routes of great difficulty, the Pestera Ungureasca area is one of the most difficult overhanging routes (in the country).

To see in detail the climbing areas in Turda Gorges, mountaineering and climbing in Turda Gorges, visit Mr. Adi Munteanu's page.

In the Turda Gorges, a series of competitions and memorials take place annually, such as the Andrei Moldovan Memorial (April), the ATA Cup (May), the Misi Szalma Memorial (September), the Hans Gora Memorial (end of November) - the closing of the climbing season and the oldest mountaineering memorial in the country, which gathers dozens of climbers from neighboring cities and the rest of the country, both in a competitive setting, but especially in the spirit of mountaineering reunions.

Required equipment:

A single 50m rope is sufficient for most routes. Long routes can cause problems with rope traction due to their winding line, but double ropes or longer belay loops can be used.

Transporting the pitons and the hammer or mobile insurance is optional for each team, but there may be cases of missing pitons or wrong route lines.
For the less initiated but also for those who are knowledgeable about equipment and routes, it is good to contact the Mountain Rescue team which is permanently present in the area from April 1st to November 30th.

Routes marked with "AID" are not equipped or have very few fixed belays in place.

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Trail status:

Old routes are equipped almost exclusively with pitons. Climbing routes are equipped with mechanical anchors, but many of the oldest, which do not have anti-corrosion protection, may be in an advanced state of physico-chemical degradation.

Climbing period:

The climbing season starts from early spring to late autumn, the optimum is between September and October, but climbing is also possible in the winter months, on sunny days, on walls such as the Hot Wall, the Pripoanelor Wall, the Air Wall and the Hungarian Range.

Climbing clubs operating in the area:

Turda - ATA (Turda Mountaineers Association) and Pajura Association

Cluj - CAR (Romanian Alpine Club) and CAR University.

Material preluat din cartea "Alpinism si escalada sportiva in Cheile Turzii",
scrisa de catre Dan Anghel si Nicolae Budeanca